Africa Antiqua: Mysteries of the Dragon Mountains

The Kamberg Valley must be one of the richest in the Natal Drakensberg in terms of  its cultural heritage. High up above, along a winding and climbing path hides the rocky eerie of Game Pass Shelter cave that was frequented by ancient Stone Age Bushmen. Within its crusty walls is to be found some of the finest prehistoric rock art in the world, on a par with the European sites of Altimira in Spain and Lascaux in France. In fact, some rock art authorities have classed it as the finest on the planet. However, what does make the Game Pass paintings stand out from other similar sites in the world is the fact that visitors are still able to view the original artwork, whereas in Spain and France this is no longer possible. For how much longer we will be permitted this privilege is uncertain.

Half way along the scenic path leading up to the shelter we come across a bubbling trough that is constantly filled with crystal clear mountain spring water. This is a leftover from the days when Kamberg Valley was a cattle farm. Today the trough satisfies the thirst of both wildlife, such as eland, jackals and leopards, as well as adventurous visitors. It’s a very welcome break during the summer months when climbing the Game Pass Shelter is especially tiring.

 From here the path climbs gently, closely hugging a cliff face with a wall of rocky rising grassland to one side and a drop of sweeping grassland and tangled forests to the other. These plunge into a narrow gorge through which runs and active stream. The views are spectacular and one can often see eland grazing on the other bank. Bring your binoculars! For those interested in flowers, there is a myriad of various wild species to be identified and admired. Pieter and Frans are both very knowledgeable on this score.

Pushing on through a curtain of forest we suddenly happen upon the most gorgeous cave whose darkened mouth gapes at us welcomingly as we enter from the bright glare without. A magnificent pristine waterfall plunges over the lips of the caves and smashes down into the valley below. We often climb a short distance down to just below the cave and stand right under the waterfall. It’s a glorious feeling in summer and cools one down nicely for the second leg of the climb. Just here one can often see little stone tools chipped away by the Bushmen who lived in the cave. They are such a thrill to find but may not be removed as they form part of the enduring cultural legacy of the valley.

Inside of the cave are faded paintings and fossils which are actually embedded into its roof. There is an air of something ancient and enigmatic about the place. The cave is held as sacred by local groups, including sangomas (Zulu diviners) and members of traditional Zionist Churches who come here to drench themselves in the sacred waters and conduct rituals. Baboon excrement is collected by sangomas and used in a variety of muthi (traditional medicines) for different purposes.

There is definitely something very special about Waterfall Cave and it’s an absolute treat to have this wonderful place thrown right upon our route to one of the most fascinating places in the world, Game Pass Shelter.